A Beginner's Guide to Azelaic Acid

Although azelaic acid may be one of the lesser-known skincare products, it remains a highly effective and well-researched ingredient. As a chemistry student with a love for skincare and product formulation, I believe it’s time that azelaic acid receives the recognition it deserves for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. This blog will break down what azelaic acid is, why it is so effective, how to incorporate it into your routine, and which Dermoi-approved products deliver the best results.

Derived from grains like wheat, rye, and barley, azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid which targets multiple skin concerns at once, including acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin texture. Azelaic acid treats multiple underlying causes of congestion by reducing Cutibacterium acnes, which is the bacteria involved in acne development.

This powerful ingredient also regulates the production of keratin. This is especially beneficial for acne-prone skin as unregulated keratin can lead to blocked pores and blackheads/ whiteheads. However, this keratolytic process is very gentle and therefore azelaic acid is suitable for even those with sensitive skin and rosacea. In addition, azelaic acid also suppresses tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. This makes it extremely effective at fading post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.

When compared to other commonly used skincare acids such as salicylic and glycolic acid, azelaic acid is praised for its large range of benefits whilst being gentle on the skin. Unlike salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that penetrates deep into oily pores to exfoliate and reduce acne, azelaic acid works both on the surface and within each follicle, delivering antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects without the same level of dryness or peeling.

In contrast to glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) known for its strong exfoliating and skin-brightening properties, azelaic acid is gentler and better tolerated by those with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.

Due to the gentle nature of azelaic acid, it can safely be used in both the morning and evening over the whole face daily. For best results, use in the morning after cleansing but before moisturiser and SPF for calming redness throughout the day, especially when tackling rosacea. It is beneficial to use in the evening after cleansing and before moisturiser to target breakouts or pigmentation overnight. However, it is always recommended to follow with an SPF 30+ if used in the morning, as even gentle actives can increase sensitivity to the sun.

The process of using azelaic acid is gradual and steady. Usually, you can start to see a reduction in redness and a smoother skin texture within 2-4 weeks of using the product. For tackling acne-prone skin you may see a change in around 4-6 weeks and a fade in pigmentation in 6-12 weeks. Using azelaic acid consistently for at least 3 months will give the best results. However, it’s safe for long-term use and doesn’t increase photosensitivity like other acids such as glycolic or salicylic acid.

Azelaic acid starts at around 5-10% which provides an accessible concentration for first-time users or those with extremely sensitive skin. For most consumers, cosmetic-grade azelaic acid at 5–10% is ideal as it is widely available, well tolerated, and suitable for long-term use for managing breakouts and pigmentation. As we increase to 15–20% azelaic acid, we see that this concentration is much stronger and can often be used for moderate acne or melasma.

However, azelaic acid does not require a high percentage to be effective. Unlike some acids that rely on exfoliation or pH-related potency, azelaic acid works through multiple cellular mechanisms, meaning even lower concentrations can produce noticeable results with consistent use.

One of azelaic acid’s biggest strengths is its compatibility. It is suited to work with most ingredients, including niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin C. Whilst it is also safe to combine azelaic acid with AHAs or BHAs in the same routine, you should proceed with a little more caution especially if you have sensitive skin. If combining, it may be better to alternate days or routines (e.g., azelaic in the morning, acids at night) to prevent over-exfoliation.

It is also advised that if you wish to use both azelaic acid and retinoids, you should apply retinoids at night and azelaic acid in the morning particularly if you are using high concentrations of either. If you are not sure how your skin will react with multiple ingredients layered, you can always do a patch test to be certain that you will not experience any irritation.

At Dermoi, a selection of scientifically backed azelaic acid products have been selected in well-formulated concentrations. A standout option is the Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum which combines 10% azelaic acid with kojic acid and bakuchiol to target blemishes, pigmentation, and redness. It’s ideal for those dealing with adult acne, dullness, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Designed specifically for rosacea-prone and reactive skin, the Jan Marini RosaLieve Redness Reducing Complex is another great dermoi-approved product with azelaic acid. This formula pairs azelaic acid with anti-inflammatory peptides and antioxidants to soothe irritation and target rosacea. It's a powerful but gentle solution for calming flare-ups and supporting a more even complexion.

All Dermoi-approved formulas are independently lab-tested for efficacy and stability, making them a trusted choice for healthier skin over time.

Azelaic acid may not always be the first ingredient that comes to mind, but its range of benefits make it a versatile and strong ingredient for any formula. Its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity as well as pigmentation control make it an excellent choice for those dealing with acne, rosacea, or uneven skin tone. With the right formulation and routine, azelaic acid can effectively transform your skin. For science-backed options, explore Dermoi’s selection of azelaic acid products designed to deliver real, visible results.

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