AHA, BHA, PHA Explained: The Holy Trinity of Gentle Exfoliation

Ever wondered what makes AHA, BHA, and PHA the go-to ingredients for smooth, radiant skin?

Many people today face a lot of confusion when choosing between AHA, BHA, and PHA. This article will serve as a guide to understanding these exfoliants.

What Are AHA, BHA, and PHA?

When you look at AHA, BHA, and PHA​, all three are acronyms. If you look at AHA vs BHA vs PHA,​ you will also see that all three are types of acids.

With AHA, BHA, and PHA, the acids serve many purposes but are most commonly used in skin care products. They work as chemical exfoliants. Chemical exfoliants are often natural products like citric acid, which comes from citrus and can be found not only in skin care products but in processed foods, laundry detergent or shampoos, medicines, wine, and disinfectants.

Chemical exfoliants provide a gentle way to remove dead cells and increase cell turnover. So what is the AHA BHA PHA difference?

• AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids): AHA is water-soluble. When it's applied to the surface of your skin, it works to gently exfoliate by dissolving dead cells.
• BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids): BHA is oil-soluble. When it's applied to your skin, it deeply penetrates rather than working on the surface layer like AHA, and this unclogs your pores by clearing away debris and excess oil.
• PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids): PHA is a gentler alternative to AHA. PHA actually has a larger molecular structure compared to the other two, so it works like AHA on the surface of your skin to not only remove dead cells to improve your skin texture and tone but to hydrate your skin.

The AHA BHA PHA difference is not only in the water vs. oil-soluble nature but in the AHA BHA PHA benefits.

AHA vs PHA vs BHA Examples

So, what are common examples of AHA, BHA, or PHA?

• AHA: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, lactic acid.
• BHA: Salicylic acid, willow extract, tropic acid, trethocanic acid.
• PHA: Gluconolactone, lactobionic acid.

What are the key differences between them?

AHA vs. BHA vs. PHA – What’s the Difference?

There are several differences between them, including the benefits they provide.

AHA, BHA, and PHA all provide chemical exfoliation which removes dead skin cells and excess oil to improve your skin texture and tone. However, the mechanism by which this is achieved is different. AHA and PHA use surface-level exfoliation on top of your skin, while BHA uses deep, pore penetration.

Additionally, given the differences in potency and benefits, a very important difference is which one can be used based on your skin type. AHA is best for dry skin, BHA is best for oily skin, and PHA is best for sensitive skin.

This relates to another key difference, which is the potency; AHA is more intense, and PHA is gentler.

AHA Benefits:

• Improves skin texture and tone.
• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

BHA Benefits:

• Unclogs pores and reduces acne.
• Controls oil production.

PHA Benefits:

• Gentle exfoliation with hydration.
• Antioxidant properties for sensitive or aging skin.

How to Choose the Right Acid for Your Skin

So, how do you know which acid is the right acid to chemically exfoliate your skin?

There are many considerations when it comes to skin type and exfoliation.

People who have oily skin need something with deeper chemical exfoliation that isn't just surface level but gets into the pores and helps remove excess sebum. This is something that will be achieved with BHA products, the only one of the three that offers deep poor penetration. This means people with oily skin can get blackheads and breakout prevention by dissolving excess oil and unclogging pores, as well as overall control over future oil production.

People who have sensitive skin need something that is the exact opposite, something that can exfoliate without deep penetration and unnecessary strength. PHA products are best because of the gentle exfoliation that can still tackle issues of oil production, skin health balance, hyperpigmentation, and hydration.

People who have dry skin can benefit from AHAs that contain hydrating properties or from PHA with hydrating features. Some PHAs and AHAs have components that hydrate the skin and also boost the regeneration of the skin cells.

People who have specific issues they want to address, like visible signs of aging or acne, can choose based on the acid that helps like AHAs to lighten hyperpigmentation or BHAs to dissolve oil.

Tips for Beginners

If you are new to AHA, BHA, or PHA, start with a lower concentration and use this for several weeks to monitor for any adverse effects, after which you can start gradually increasing how frequently you use your skincare products. This frequency is really based on your personal skincare routine and skin type. You might start with a toner first, and after several weeks of using a toner, you could increase it to more potent exfoliants like acid peels or serums.

As a beginner, you should also note the following:

1. It is important to note that whether you are using AHA, BHA, or PHA, all of these are chemical exfoliants or acids and that means that you will experience some slight redness immediately after use.
2. If you are prone to redness or sensitivity, start with a very light AHA and use it gradually, monitoring for breakouts or other signs of irritation as you continue to use it.
3. If you are using an AHA and a moisturizer, apply the AHA and wait 30 minutes so that your skin has time to absorb it before you add a moisturizer; otherwise, this will cancel the benefits of both.
4. If you experience dryness after using your acid-based exfoliant, you can add sunscreen and moisturizer to your routine.
5. PHAs should be used once per week or every three days if you have particularly oily skin.
6. AHAs or BHAs should be left on your face for no more than 5-10 minutes.
7. You can use BHA and PHA together if you are trying to overcome signs of aging or acne.
8. PHA is less likely to cause redness or irritation but it isn't because of the gentler qualities but rather because it isn't oil soluble.
9. In general, you can use AHA every day unless you have sensitive skin or are currently dealing with a windburn or sunburn.
10. It is not recommended that you use AHAs to treat acne because they can actually dry out your pores leaving your pores more susceptible to clogs and acne breakouts.
11. You can combine salicylic acid with PHAs for a gentle exfoliant but obviously test this for a few weeks to monitor for any problems.
12. Also, remember that if you are new to acids, you will start to see a difference in a matter of days, but the longer you use your products, the better your results will be.

Summing Up

Choosing between AHA, BHA, and PHA can give you the right level of exfoliation for your skin type. There are several benefits of AHA, BHA, and PHA as the "Holy Trinity" of exfoliation but remember that with the right choice and proper usage, these acids can transform your skincare routine.

Dermoi is a cutting-edge skincare store specializing in scientifically-verified products. Our in-house scientific experts meticulously evaluate each product to ensure it meets our stringent standards of efficacy. At Dermoi, every product you purchase is thoroughly researched and hand-selected for its ability to deliver remarkable results for your skin.

If you have questions about your skin or need advice on skincare products, our team of scientists is available to assist. Contact us via email at [email protected] or call (0)20 3963 9930 between 11am and 4pm, Monday to Friday.