Chemical vs Physical Exfoliation: Which One is Right for Your Skin?

Exfoliation is the process where dead skin cells get removed from the outer layer of your skin. It is an essential and healthy way to improve the brightness and color of your skin, leading to healthier, glowing skin.

MThere are two main ways that you can do this: chemical vs. physical exfoliation. Many people might ask, “Are chemical exfoliants better than physical?” or “Can I use both physical and chemical exfoliant together?”

MIt is important to understand the differences between physical vs. chemical exfoliation and figure out which one might be better for you based on your skin type and your needs.

What is Chemical Exfoliation?

Chemical exfoliation is a form of skincare that breaks down and removes dead skin cells using chemical processes, with active ingredients like:

• AHAs
• BHAs
• Enzymes

These chemicals loosen or break the bonds between your skin cells so that the dead ones come off more easily. They achieve this by breaking down the sugars in your skin cells that otherwise hold them to your skin.

Types of Chemical Exfoliants

There are several types of chemical exfoliants:

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

These include things like citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, and glycolic acid which are less intense, making them more suitable for sensitive skin. They help to improve sun damage, skin tone, and fine lines or wrinkles.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

These include things like lipohydroxy acid or salicylic acid. These products are oil-soluble, as opposed to AHAs or enzymes, which means they help clear out pores and are used for the treatment of acne and oily skin.

Enzymes

Some products have enzymes in them, like papain, that come from natural sources such as pineapple, kiwi, or other fruits, vegetables, and plants, which help to digest the dead skin cells and make it easier for them to come off.

Note: Enzyme-based chemical exfoliants tend to fall under the same categories as AHAs.

Benefits of Chemical Exfoliation

Benefits include:

• Reduced acne
• Unclogged pores
• Improved skin tone
• Reversed sun damage
• Reduced fine lines and wrinkles
• Improved hyperpigmentation

The type of chemical exfoliant you use will, of course, contain individual benefits, with some focusing more on things like acne and clogged pores, while others might focus more on hyperpigmentation or skin hydration.

How to Use Chemical Exfoliants

There are many facial products today that rely on chemical exfoliants, like:

• Liquids
• Serums
• Masks

All of these have individual rules for how they should be applied, but generally get applied as a serum or mask that gets put on top of your face for a designated amount of time or as a liquid that you blot onto your face with something like a clean cotton ball.

Chemical exfoliation is generally better suited for people with acne or skin sensitivities because it causes less physical irritation.

What is Physical Exfoliation?

Physical exfoliation is when you physically scrub away your dead skin cells. The mechanism of action is to physically remove the dead skin cells from the top of the face with soft, circular motions that encourage blood flow and scrub the skin clean.

Types of Physical Exfoliants

There are two main types of physical exfoliants:

• Scrubs: These are face washes or cleansers with abrasive material in them to facilitate the breakdown of dead cells.
• Tools: These include simple things like loofahs, washcloths, or other items used to facilitate the abrasive scrubbing movement.

Benefits of Physical Exfoliation

The benefits are much the same as chemical exfoliation:

• Better blood flow to the face
• Unclogged pores
• Removal of dead skin cells
• Reduced appearance of age spots, fine lines, wrinkles, and acne

Another benefit of physical exfoliation is enhanced hydration, which is achieved when you exfoliate before you apply things like moisturizers.

How to Use Physical Exfoliants

Physical exfoliation products tend to include things like face washes or physical tools, which are used based on individual instructions.

The scrubs might be exfoliating facial scrubs that you use once per week with an abrasive compound in them to encourage the manual removal of dead skin cells and to clear out pores.

The tools might be manual tools that are used to scrub away dead skin cells like brushes, sponges, washcloths, or loofahs.

Sometimes scrubs and tools are used together to gently remove skin cells, increasing blood flow to the area as well.

Chemical vs Physical Exfoliation: Key Differences

So what are the key differences between chemical exfoliation vs. physical exfoliation?

• Mechanism of Action: With chemical vs. physical exfoliation, the mechanism of action is either chemical or physical.
• Effect on Skin: The effects on the skin are slightly different, with physical having a more robust effect on blood flow and brightness, while chemical reaches deeper layers of the skin.
• Application Frequency: With physical vs. chemical exfoliation products, you can use both on a regular basis, with most scrubs around once per week and chemical exfoliation based on needs.
• Results and Time: These can take time, with physical exfoliation showing results right away, but chemical taking weeks or months.

That said, they can be combined to extend the benefits.

Can I Use Both Physical and Chemical Exfoliants Together?

Given the different benefits, many people ask: “Can I use both physical and chemical exfoliants together?”

The answer is “yes”. They can both be used as part of your routine, but they should not be used at the same time.

When you are comparing chemical exfoliation vs. physical exfoliation, consider these tips:

• If you choose a physical exfoliant, use it once or twice per week.
• When you include a chemical exfoliant, use it on a different day than when you use the physical exfoliant.
• If you have sensitive skin, avoid using more than one at the same time.

Remember: Both can lead to redness, irritation, and potential damage to the outermost layer of your skin if you use either (or both) too frequently. So, if you want to use both, be sure to monitor your skin and cut back on how frequently or what types of exfoliation you use based on things like dryness, noticeable flaking, or other signs of damage.

Are Chemical Exfoliants Better Than Physical?

When considering chemical or physical exfoliant products, you need to compare the pros and cons of each.

Pros of Physical Exfoliation:

• You get noticeable results right away.
• You can remove clogged pores and blackheads.
• You get a smoother surface for other skincare products used after exfoliation.
• It is easy to do at home.
• The scrubbing with physical exfoliation can encourage blood flow.

Cons of Physical Exfoliation:

• You can cause micro-tears on your skin if you are too hard or if you have sensitive skin.
• It can cause dryness if done too often, damaging your skin barrier.
• You are more prone to sunburns after physical exfoliation.
• You might not be able to use physical exfoliation if you have damaged, sensitive, or acne-prone skin.

ros of Chemical Exfoliation:

• It can be a gentler option for those with sensitive skin.
• You get a more even skin tone with the removal of dead skin cells.
• Chemical exfoliation can reach deeper levels of the skin, possibly improving your elasticity.
• You can get targeted formulas for things like hyperpigmentation, pores, or wrinkles.

Cons of Chemical Exfoliation:

• Chemical exfoliants can also make you more sensitive to the sun.
• Used too much or too strongly, it can cause burns, stinging, or dryness on the skin.
• There is visible peeling after some chemical exfoliants.
• It is not safe for all skin types, and using it too often can cause a problem.

No matter which one you choose, chemical vs. physical exfoliation, it is important to pick the right exfoliant for your skin and goals.

Physical vs. Chemical Exfoliation by Skin Type

Which option is best, chemical or physical exfoliant products, for each skin type?

• Sensitive Skin: Those with sensitive skin do better with mild chemical exfoliants like glycolic acid.
• Dry Skin: If you have dry skin, chemical exfoliants with products like hyaluronic acid can be used in conjunction with light physical exfoliation.
• Oily Skin: If you have oily skin, chemical exfoliants like salicylic acid can remove excess oil, but they are best used in conjunction with mild physical exfoliation.
• Acne: If you have acne, a BHA chemical exfoliant will be better, as it can remove bacteria and oil without the harshness of physical exfoliation.

Chemical vs Physical Exfoliation: Which Is Better?

Always choose the right exfoliant for your skin using the quick-reference guide based on skin type and goals above. While there are differences between chemical and physical exfoliants, both have unique benefits.

Assess your skin type and concerns to choose the best method for you, chemical or physical exfoliant products, potentially incorporating both. Both can be a useful way to get the benefits that both options provide, but if you do both, remember that chemical exfoliant vs. physical exfoliant products may not necessarily be used at the same time, but perhaps one then the other. You should also use caution to create a balanced routine.

About Dermoi

Discover Dermoi, the only concept store for scientifically-verified skincare. Our expert scientific team performs a thorough analysis of each skincare product, ensuring only the most effective options are available to you. With Dermoi, every item is backed by science, offering transformative benefits for your skin.

Need help with skincare? Our scientific specialists are ready to answer any questions you have. Get in touch via email at [email protected] or give us a call at (0)20 3963 9930, Monday to Friday, from 11am to 4pm.