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Peptides are skin icons that serve as building blocks for key proteins like collagen and elastin, leading to smoother, firmer, and more elastic skin.
Peptides are transforming a range of categories from skincare to haircare. But what are they? Amino acids, peptides, polypeptides and proteins…we can think of amino acids being like the letters of the alphabet, where each amino acid is a single letter. When the letters are joined together, you get short words, or peptides.
These words are then joined to form a sentence, much like peptides join to form a polypeptide. And when the full story is complete, the polypeptide chains fold, arrange and interact in a specific way to form a protein.
Amino acids are therefore the fundamental building blocks for proteins, which are essential for practically all bodily functions, from growth and repair to metabolism. These proteins include collagen, elastin and keratin, which are the foundations of our skin.
The skin is made up of three layers, the epidermis (made up of keratin), the dermis (made up of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of collagen and elastin) and hypodermis (fatty layer). There are 20 naturally-occurring amino acids which can be linked together in various orders to produce different peptide combinations. This means every peptide has a unique purpose, targeting different skin concerns.
Whilst we naturally produce peptides in the body, with age, they do deplete. This makes them a key constituent of anti-aging formulations. Elastin and collagen decline with age due to a range of factors, from environmental stress such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, to intrinsic factors such as hormonal changes. When the collagen in our skin breaks down, the skin naturally produces peptides as ‘damage signals’.
Topical peptides mimic or boost these natural processes. Topical applications of peptides can trigger a process called a ‘signalling cascade’, which stimulates collagen and elastin production (1). This leads to firm, hydrated and rejuvenated skin, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. A clinical trial including 70 healthy adults utilised high-precision dermatological devices to investigate the anti-aging effects of collagen peptides. The findings showed significant improvements in wrinkle depth, skin elasticity and skin hydration (2).
Overall, there are four key types of topical peptides (3):
The small molecular size of amino acids, remaining small even when formed in a peptide chain, enables them to penetrate the skin easily. Moreover, their good biocompatibility and bioactivity has made them highly sought out cosmetic compounds (2).
Recent research has even discovered that some of these cosmetic peptides possess wound healing and tissue regeneration properties (3). However, peptides are fragile molecules, susceptible to enzymatic and light degradation. This means innovative formulation techniques must be harnessed to protect the peptides and improve skin penetration.
Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP – this serum has been clinically proven to visibly reduce dynamic wrinkles in 10 minutes and deep-set wrinkles in 8 weeks. Key peptide-based ingredients in this formulation include;
The formulation contains many signal peptides (e.g. palmitoyl-tripeptide-1), which acting as messengers, tell skin cells to increase the production of collagen and elastin. It also contains neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides (e.g. acetyl hexapeptide-8) which influence neurotransmitter signals, relaxing facial tension. The MiniProteinTMdesign is interesting, as with its small size, it is able to penetrate the skin, and with its folded 3D structure, it can bind to cell receptors effectively. Acting as a carrier peptide, encapsulated copper peptides (copper palmitoyl heptapeptide) deliver elements to support skin repair.
Osmosis Boost Peptide Activating Mist - this hydrating spray adds moisture to the skin for a smoother complexation. The key peptide ingredient is:
Zelens Peptide Complex Firming Cream – This formulation enhances firmness, hydrates the skin and reduces wrinkles depth (by up to 35.5%). Key peptide ingredients include:
Indeed Labs Peptalash II Serum – Containing a combination of specialised peptides, stem cells and nourishing ingredients to aid in the regeneration of the eyelash hair follicle and preventing eyelash loss. The key peptide ingredients are;
Peptides can easily be incorporated in your self-care routine (AM, PM or both!), whether that’s through a moisturising cream, hydrating mist or serum. Peptides can be applied along with most other typical skincare ingredients, such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. However, peptides should not be used with Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) as these acids break down the peptide bonds. This renders the effectivity of the peptides.
Peptides are powerful molecules, presenting a range of benefits for our skin and hair. From reducing wrinkles, improving skin firmness and hydration to enhancing eyelash production. Consistent use of peptides, as always, is key for maximum effectiveness.
