Growth factors has become a big beauty buzzword as of late, as well as a major part of regenerative skincare. Learn how these molecules work at the cellular level to repair the skin from within.
Growth factors can be thought of as the body’s messengers — signalling proteins that stimulate the skin’s healing, repair, and regeneration mechanisms. These essential molecules are secreted between cells to communicate and trigger processes such as cell division, migration, and gene expression. By binding to cell receptors, growth factors instruct skin cells (such as fibroblasts and keratinocytes) to perform specific tasks that support renewal.
In recent years, growth factors have become a key part of regenerative skincare, bridging cosmetic and clinical treatments. Unlike conventional anti-aging ingredients such as retinol or peptides, which focus on surface renewal, growth factors work at a cellular level, encouraging the skin to repair itself from within. This biological approach has generated considerable innovation in cosmeceuticals, with dermatologists and scientists collaborating to create formulations that mimic the body’s natural healing processes.
One of their key roles is boosting the production of collagen and elastin — proteins vital for skin texture and tone. Collagen provides structural support and firmness, while elastin gives the skin its ability to stretch and recoil (1). As we age, the production of both proteins naturally decreases, leading to fine lines and wrinkles, often accelerated by photoaging from ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure.
When applied topically through serums or creams, growth factors can signal skin cells to regenerate more effectively, resulting in smoother, faster-healing skin. In skincare products, growth factors usually derive from cultured human cells, plants or recombinant DNA technology. To delve a bit deeper, let’s put the spotlight on a few product.
The Osmosis Stemfactor Growth Factor Serum has been innovatively formulated to rejuvenate, heal and protect the skin. Dubbed the ‘fountain of youth’ in a bottle, it is described as one of the most clinically proven and technologically advanced growth factor serums available in the UK. It can be applied on aging skin, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, blemishes and sun damage.
The formula contains growth factor-enhanced media, with over 600 different skin growth factors and utilises advanced technology to deliver them deep into the skin. These patented methods feed stem cells and fibroblasts to replenish the skin’s shortage of growth factors. The delivery system relies on exosomes, which are extracted from human skin cells. Exosomes are currently one of the hottest topics in skincare and regenerative medicine.
Exosomes are tiny, extracellular vesicles released by most cells in our bodies. They can be thought of as microscopic “bubbles” with a size of 30-200nm (2), which act as messengers to carry information between cells. They regulate communication during tissue repair and regeneration, immune responses, inflammation control, and collagen and elastin production — essentially telling cells how to act. Exosomes also contain valuable biomolecules such as microRNAs (which regulate gene expression) and lipids, which further help to regulate inflammation and enhance skin repair (3).
In this serum, the exosomes carry growth factors and proteins directly to their target cells, increasing stability and enhancing their effectiveness. Some of the key growth factors used in the formulation include:
The formulation is cruelty-free, vegan and free of parabens and toxic chemicals. By harnessing such an innovative delivery system, this product has the potential to rejuvenate the skin and restore a more youthful appearance.
The Calecim Eye Contour Lifting Cream also utilises growth factor technology to target the delicate skin around the eyes. The formulation contains stem-cell-secreted growth factors (PTT-6®) to reduce dark circles, puffiness and fine lines while firming the skin.
These stem cells are ethically sourced from patented red deer stem cells. They enhance overall facial rejuvenation, naturally lifting and firming both upper and lower eyelids.
Another innovation in this category is the AQ Skin Solutions Advanced Hair Complex, which utilises growth factor technology to rejuvenate hair follicles, stimulate hair growth and improve scalp health. It works by repairing damaged hair follicles and improving nutrient circulation, making it a powerful treatment for thinning hair.
Overall, we have delved into the use of growth factors in cosmeceutical products spanning from delicate facial skin to the scalp. Whilst the use of growth factors represents a promising advancement in skincare science, there remains a level of complexity in their formulation. Innovative delivery mechanisms are essential, as growth factors are protein structures that degrade easily and can struggle to penetrate the skin effectively. Exosome-based delivery systems show great potential, protecting these proteins and facilitating targeted delivery to specific cells - significantly increasing their efficacy.
However, as with most advanced skincare, results depend on consistency and time. Ultimately, growth factor and exosome technologies represent a powerful shift toward cellular-level skincare, targeting the biological root of aging rather than its visible symptoms. Growth factors have immense potential, with researchers also exploring their role in scar reduction and inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema (5).
As delivery systems continue to evolve and become more precise, the next generation of growth-factor products could offer personalised formulas tailored to individual skin types. This level of customisation may ultimately redefine how we approach skincare — making it not just cosmetic, but therapeutic.
(1) Mehta-Ambalal SR. Neocollagenesis and Neoelastinogenesis: From the Laboratory to the Clinic. Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery [Internet]. 2016;9(3):145–51. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5064677/
(2) Gurung S, Perocheau D, Touramanidou L, Baruteau J. The exosome journey: from biogenesis to uptake and intracellular signalling. Cell Communication and Signaling [Internet]. 2021 Apr 23;19(1). Available from: https://biosignaling.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12964-021-00730-1
(3) Rayner KJ, Hennessy EJ. Extracellular communication via microRNA: lipid particles have a new message. Journal of Lipid Research. 2013 May;54(5):1174–81.
(4) Norouzi F, Aghajani S, Vosoughi N, Sharif S, Ghahremanzadeh K, Mokhtari Z, et al. Exosomes derived stem cells as a modern therapeutic approach for skin rejuvenation and hair regrowth. Regenerative Therapy [Internet]. 2024 Nov 19;26:1124–37. Available from: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352320424001792
(5) Shi HX, Lin C, Lin BB, Wang ZG, Zhang HY, Wu FZ, et al. The anti-scar effects of basic fibroblast growth factor on the wound repair in vitro and in vivo. PloS One [Internet]. 2013;8(4):e59966. Available from: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23565178/)
