Dr. Jahnavi Maini is a clinical pharmacologist and drug safety consultant with extensive expertise in pharmacovigilance and medical research. Her evidence-based approach ensures accurate, science-backed insights into skin health and therapeutic care.
Nothing ages a complexion quite like the parched landscape of uncared-for dry Skin. A simple bottle of a good skin moisturiser is all that is needed to heal, protect, and maintain healthy-looking Skin with a youthful glow. But people often struggle to find the right one for their skin type, so let's dig deeper to understand the science behind that perfect bottle of moisturiser.
Understanding Skin Hydration
The Skin is the largest organ with three layers, and the outer layer, known as the stratum corneum, plays a crucial role as a barrier to external irritants. This outer layer is filled with hygroscopic molecules called the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF), which help draw in and hold onto moisture, keeping our Skin hydrated.
Think of the stratum corneum like a wall made of "bricks and mortar." The "bricks" are corneocytes, which are flattened skin cells, while the "mortar" consists of lipids that protect and support them. Important lipids like ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids are essential for maintaining the Skin's structure. Thus, dry Skin usually lacks oil or has a damaged skin barrier, and dehydrated Skin lacks water.
The moral of the story is that healthy skin is not only hydrated but also has an optimum protective barrier function. But maintaining hydration is not as simple as splashing water directly, which can, in fact, make the Skin feel drier than before. Thus come our champions and underrated soldiers of skin care: good skin moisturisers, composed of different proportions of water and oil/lipids.
Key Ingredients in a Good Skin Moisturiser and Their Functions
Components required to make the perfect concoction:
Occludent
Function: form a physical barrier on the Skin, significantly reducing Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) – evaporation of water from the.
Chemical Nature: Typically hydrophobic (water-repelling) lipids and oils.
Dermatologically Proven Examples:
Hydrocarbons: Petrolatum (Vaseline - often considered the gold standard for occlusion), Mineral Oil, Paraffin.
Silicones: Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone (provide occlusion with a less greasy feel).
Function: fill the spaces between skin cells (corneocytes), help repair the skin barrier. They often have some occlusive properties as well.
Chemical Nature: Lipids, oils, esters, and fatty acids/alcohols that mimic or supplement the Skin's natural lipids.
Dermatologically Proven Examples:
Lipids naturally found in Skin: Ceramides, Cholesterol, Free Fatty Acids (e.g., Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid). Formulations aiming for "barrier repair" often contain specific ratios.
Sensitive, very dry and eczema prone Skin: look for terms "barrier repair, hypoallergic, emollients/occlusives in physiological ratios.
Formulation (lotion, cream, ointment, gel): ointments are typically more thicker on Skin than creams more suited for dry Skin. Lotions or gels feel much lighter and less occlusive, being more apt for oily or acne prone Skin.
Other Ingredients: water, preservatives (to prevent microbial growth), emulsifiers (to keep oil and water mixed), pH adjusters, and potentially fragrances or colorants, though fragrance-free options are often recommended for sensitive Skin. Some may also include active ingredients like antioxidants (Vitamin C, E), anti-inflammatories (Niacinamide), or exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs).
Good Skin Moisturiser: A Must-Have for Your Skincare Routine
In summary, good skin moisturisers combine occlusive, humectant, and emollient ingredients to provide hydration and skin barrier support. The right mix determines the product's effectiveness for different skin types.
Remember, each Skin type has a moisturiser suited for it, even oily Skin; what works for one may not work for another.
And the moisturiser is one skincare bottle where more ingredients don't always mean the worst.
